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| In Brief | 1. WALKING & EXPLORING THE MORAY & BANFFSHIRE COASTLINE | ||
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Since the original compilation of these walks a few years ago, there have been many changes, improvements and better access and signposting, so I am updating them as from January 2012 Though not entirely complete, it will soon be possible to walk the entire North East Coastline, but we are fortunate that in Moray and Banffshire virtually all the routes are open, and connect up with the Speyside Way at Tugnet at the mouth of the Spey. Anywhere along this stretch of coast from Nairn in the West to Troup Head and Pennan in the East, makes for a rewarding excursion, but I will highlight individually, the really special places which are a must for the outdoor enthusiast, bird watchers and nature lovers. Seals and dolphins are regularly seen all along the coast, but the more likely spots for colonies of Seals are the mouths of the Rivers Findhorn and Spey and guests have reported lots to the east of Portgordon. The nearest and best location for viewing Dolphins, as well as Ospreys and many species of sea birds and wildfowl, is at Tugnet at the mouth of the Spey, where a very informative Wild Life Centre is based, with audio-visual displays, regular workshops, children`s interactive area and a café / restaurant. Tugnet to Garmouth Park at the view point by the Wild Life Centre and after viewing the various attractions, follow the river inland for about 1mile on the Speyside Way, then turn right, where signposted Garmouth and cross over the old railway bridge ( don`t worry, it has been many years since a train has used this route). Access to Garmouth is up the path on the left just after the golf course. It is an attractive village with an old Inn where one can be suitably refreshed, or have a meal before returning by the same route. Strathlene Beach Follow the coastal road East from Buckie harbour through the former fishing communities, then shortly after the Caravan Park turn left into the parking area. This is the nearest beach to the cabins, with lots of grassy areas and rocks to explore. Portknockie to Cullen 45 minutes – 1hour each way This is a spectacular gem of a walk taking in soaring sea cliffs, myriads of sea birds, caves and finishing on a beach. On stormy days the surf and the spume can be really dramatic. On entering Portknockie, follow the signs for the Harbour and then follow signs for Bow Fiddle Rock where one can leave the car in the area provided. Follow the path to the Rock, where it`s strange name will soon become apparent, then follow the good track round the headland to the top of the steps which lead down to sea level. This little walk can finish here for the less able visitors, but the steps down are very well constructed and it is no great effort to access the beach, and well worth it. Skirt the foot of the cliffs on the well trodden track, passing the main cave, until arriving on the beach. On reaching the Golf Clubhouse, climb up the steps and cross their car park and head over the footbridge into the old Seatown. Wander through the quaint lanes and alleys until you reach Cullen proper, or follow the sea wall round to the harbour and then climb up into town. There are numerous eating establishments, but at the time of writing, the Rockpool Cafe (situated in the centre of Cullen on the corner of the Square) is getting good reviews. No trip to Cullen is complete without a visit to the famous Ice Cream Shop, Seafield Street, and serves the most delicious home-made ice cream. The most direct route back to your vehicle is via the old railway viaduct and line which is now a very popular walk and cycle route. On reaching the outskirts of Portknockie, cut across the playing fields in front of the caravan site towards the Bow Fiddle car park. Cullen to Sunnyside Beach and Findlater Castle This pleasant walk starts to the east of the harbour, passing a fascinating Pet Cemetery and carries on round the headland. Gradually, the path narrows and becomes a slightly more difficult, skirting round the numerous coves, and clambers over a rocky headland with a well made and interesting stone staircase. The remaining route is along the seashore and then on to the stunning Sunnyside beech, a delightful sandy area with safe swimming and frequently deserted. A long gradual climb from the beach takes one to the cliff top path which leads to the Findlater Castle viewpoint. If a pick-up has been arranged, take the path inland to access Findlater Castle Car Park, but firstly, if one is sure of foot, drop down to the castle ruins which cling precariously to the rock face and explore the underground vaults, or picnic on the grassy plateau with panoramic views over the Firth and maybe spot some dolphins. If no transport has been organised the best route back is by the way you have come. Keen walkers may wish to carry on the Coastal Path to Sandend, a further 30 minutes, where they can access the A98 and get the Stagecoach 305 bus back to Cullen, but check frequency of the service first. Sandend to Portsoy 1 hour aprox. This delightful small village is best known for the beautiful sandy beach and dunes, very popular with local families, surfers and canoeists, but take the time to explore the small harbour area. This quaint little corner is another example, like Pennan and Crovie further along the Banff coast, of where dispossessed tenants and crofters from the Highland Clearances managed to grab scraps of land virtually on the foreshore and built their humble little shelters, packed tightly together as protection from the elements. Here they eked out a precarious living from the sea and over the years built stone piers and breakwaters, resulting in the safe haven we now see. Most of the homes have been much improved and are mostly holiday homes. Proceed along the beach and at the far end access the coastal path below Glenglasshaugh Distillery, and follow the path round the headland and eventually reach Portsoy, where well earned refreshments are available in the numerous pubs and cafes. Portsoy old harbour, built in 1692, is really special with its unique stone quays and surrounded by impressive houses and warehouses from the same period. The Royal Burgh of Banff An exploratory stroll round this county town with its magnificent Georgian architecture and designated an area of Outstanding Historical Interest is well worth while and should include a visit to Duff House, a grand “Adam” mansion which also houses Galleries exhibiting paintings and artefacts from the National Galleries of Scotland. Macduff This town on the eastern bank of the Deveron, just across the bay from Banff, does not enjoy the grand architecture of its neighbour, but the busy harbour area is of interest, not least as it is the only remaining privately owned shipyard in Europe still building wooden fishing boats. Just behind the harbour is the Aquarium, a good place to visit when the weather is unkind. Gardenstown, Crovie and Pennan Although at least a 1 hour drive, it really is worth the effort to visit this unique area, with its picturesque villages hanging from or nestling beneath the sandstone cliffs. Gardenstown was reputedly the richest town in Scotland at one time, though I doubt it was from smuggling, as it is also probably the most religious village in Britain with its many churches. It was a very busy harbour with 50 boats and 250 fishermen wrestling a living from the sea in the 1920`s. Alas no more, but still a delightful setting with an interesting heritage museum. My favourite way of experiencing this area is to park either at the harbour or drive to the car park at the eastern end of the foreshore. From this car park follow the track along the foreshore to Crovie (pronounced “Crivvie”) Please note that at high tide with a northerly gale blowing in, this route may be too treacherous, in which case drive back up through the town and turn left where school is signposted. Follow out of town and turn first left signposted Crovie. After a short distance you will come to the car park and viewpoint, where one is encouraged to leave the car, as there is only car parking for villagers in the village, but it is well worth the exertion of visiting this truly unique habitation squashed between the sea and the cliffs. More detailed information on Crovie and Gardenstown can be found in the cabin folder. Findhorn A delightful sailing and holiday village, with a fascinating history, situated at the mouth of the river Findhorn, which forms a large bay before disgorging into the Moray Firth. The Ice House Museum provides an intriguing glimpse into the salmon netting industry which survived along these shores until quite recently. Personally one of our favourite excursions is a long walk on the beach, followed by a meal at one of the 2 hostelries, especially in good weather, sitting outside overlooking the bustling bay. Findhorn is also the home to the Findhorn Foundation, situated just before the entrance to the village. This is an internationally famous retreat where participants practise meditation, and encourage a more eco friendly lifestyle. To this end they have constructed an eco village, and along with a cafe and a most interesting shop, welcome visitors. Findhorn to Burghead If transportation can be arranged, a wonderful walk along Findhorn bay, either on the beach or just inland on the forestry tracks, can be enjoyed via Roseisle or all the way to Burghead. There are toilets at the Roseisle car park, otherwise there are no facilities between the two towns. Burghead This town sitting on an Iron Age fortified peninsula and steeped in ancient history is well worth a stopover. Park down by the picturesque harbour and explore the headland and its fascinating past. Hopeman Perfect for a family day out. On the B9040 between Burghead and Lossiemouth, follow harbour sign and park either at the harbour or continue east to the beach car parks. This was the absolute favourite with our family and happily has become the same for our grandchildren. After enjoying the atmosphere of the harbour and pleasures of the play facilities, including ramps for skateboarding etc., on the adjacent grassland, descend on to the sandy beach and weather permitting relax in the glorious sunshine!!! Otherwise continue east along the beach and gain the main track leading to Hopeman cove, about 1 mile, but on the way explore the many side tracks leading to fun and interesting things on the rocky foreshore. Suddenly you will overlook the fabulous Cornish style cove, with its caves, tunnels, safe rock clambering, rock pools, sand slides, sandy beach, and mostly safe bathing, but beware of outgoing tide as it may suck you out. By climbing out of the cove and continuing eastwards, one immediately arrives at the Clasach Quarry, famed for the beautiful sandstone which has been used in many prestigious projects, but especially the exterior cladding on the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. The cove can be accessed more directly by taking the sandy track opposite the Duffus junction on the B9040. For the fitter and more adventuresome the trail follows the cliff top all the way to Covesea and Lossiemouth East beach, with many interesting diversions to the shoreline, where accessible, to explore the many coves and caves. Lossiemouth This once thriving fishing and trading port, now mostly a yachting and leisure harbour, enjoys a glorious position at the mouth of the river Lossie which divides the excellent east and west beaches. The latter is accessed by means of the wooden footbridge, easily seen from the harbour area, where there are many attractions to while away a few hours and plenty of choice for refreshments. For aircraft spotters RAF Lossiemouth lies at the back of the town and along the southern perimeter there are a number of viewing lay-bys. Kingston and Garmouth These two historic communities lie on the west bank of mouth of the river Spey and once supported a thriving shipbuilding industry using timber floated down from the forests of Strathspey. Garmouth is proud of the fact that Charles 11 graced them with his presence in 1650 and that Maggie Fair commemorated its 400th anniversary in 1987. |
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